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Decaf Coffee Guide: How It's Made and Does It Taste Different?

Decaf has a reputation problem. For years it's been the watery, flavourless option at the bottom of the menu, something you order out of necessity rather than enjoyment. That reputation is well out of date.

Latte art being poured into a white cup, showcasing a beautiful design in The Goldstone Blend and Decaf Duo.

Speciality decaf has come a long way, and the process behind it is more interesting than most people realise. Here's what actually happens when caffeine is removed from a coffee bean, and why a well-made decaf can taste just as good as its caffeinated counterpart.

What does decaffeination actually mean?

Put simply, decaffeination is the process of removing caffeine from green (unroasted) coffee beans before they're roasted. Caffeine is a naturally occurring compound found in the coffee cherry, and removing it without damaging the flavour compounds locked inside the bean is a delicate balancing act.

Most decaffeination happens before the coffee ever reaches a roastery. Green coffee is sent to specialist decaffeination facilities, decaffeinated, dried back out, then shipped on to roasters like us to roast as normal.

There are several methods used to strip caffeine from green coffee, each with a different effect on the final cup.

The Sugarcane (Ethyl Acetate) Process

This is the method behind our Decaf El Buho, and it's one of the newer, more natural approaches to decaffeination.

The process uses ethyl acetate, a naturally occurring ester found in fruits and vegetation, including bananas and sugarcane. In commercial decaffeination, it's typically sourced as a by-product of sugarcane fermentation, which is where the process gets its nickname: Sugarcane Decaf.

The steps are fairly straightforward:

  1. Green beans are soaked in water and steamed to open up their cell structure and make them more porous.
  2. The beans are soaked in an ethyl acetate solution, which binds to the caffeine molecules and draws them out.
  3. The beans are rinsed thoroughly with water to remove any residual solution.
  4. The beans are dried back down to a stable moisture level, ready for export and roasting.

Because the solvent is plant-derived and the process is gentler than some of the older chemical methods, it tends to preserve more of the coffee's natural character. Our Decaf El Buho is sourced from farmers in the Huila and Tolima regions of Colombia, and the cup reflects it: ripe yellow stone fruit, toffee and milk chocolate, with none of the flatness people associate with decaf.

Other common decaffeination methods

The Sugarcane process isn't the only one in use. Two other methods you'll come across:

The Swiss Water Process uses only water, temperature and time to remove caffeine, no chemical solvents at all. Green coffee is soaked in a caffeine-free green coffee extract, which draws caffeine out of the beans through osmosis while leaving the flavour compounds largely intact. It's a popular choice for brands wanting a fully chemical-free claim, though it can be a more expensive process.

The CO2 Process uses pressurised carbon dioxide to extract caffeine from the beans. It's considered effective at preserving flavour, but it requires specialist high-pressure equipment, so it's typically only used by very large-scale decaffeination facilities.

Each method removes the vast majority of caffeine (generally 97% or more), but the route taken to get there can shape the cup in subtle ways.

So does decaf taste different?

Yes, but maybe not in the way you'd expect.

A poorly sourced, poorly roasted decaf will always taste thin and one-dimensional, in the same way a poorly sourced, poorly roasted regular coffee will. That's not a caffeine problem, it's a quality problem.

A well-sourced decaf, processed using a method like Sugarcane Decaf and roasted with the same care as the rest of our range, holds onto the sweetness, body and tasting notes of its origin. The removal of caffeine doesn't strip the coffee of flavour; it strips it of one specific compound, and a good roaster will roast around that to bring the best out of the bean regardless.

The honest answer is that side by side, a well-made decaf and its caffeinated equivalent can taste genuinely similar. The differences that do exist tend to be subtle, sometimes a touch softer in body or acidity, rather than the night-and-day gap people expect.

The rise of half caff: the best of both worlds

If you love your evening coffee ritual but not what it does to your sleep, there's a middle ground gaining serious traction in speciality coffee right now: half caff.

Half caff blends combine regular and decaf beans, typically in a 50/50 split, giving you a noticeably lower caffeine hit without giving up caffeine (or flavour) altogether. It's a popular pick for anyone wanting to extend their coffee drinking further into the day without paying for it at 2am.

Our own half caff, Sol y Luna, is a 50/50 blend built for exactly that. Notes of Braeburn apple, buttered toast and roasted almonds make it a genuinely satisfying cup in its own right, not just a compromise, crafted so you can drink coffee at 4pm and still get a full night's sleep.

It's a sign of where speciality coffee is heading: caffeine content as a dial you can adjust to suit your day, rather than an all-or-nothing decision between full caff and full decaf.

FAQ

Is decaf coffee completely caffeine-free? No. Decaf coffee still contains a small amount of caffeine, usually around 1 to 3% of what you'd find in a regular cup. Decaffeination removes the vast majority of caffeine, but not all of it.

Does decaf coffee roast the same way as regular coffee? Largely, yes, though decaffeinated beans can behave slightly differently during roasting due to changes in moisture and density from the decaffeination process. A roaster who knows their decaf will adjust for this to get the best result.

Can I use decaf for espresso? Absolutely. Our Decaf El Buho is roasted as an espresso roast and works just as well for espresso-based drinks as it does for filter or cafetière.

What's the difference between decaf and half caff? Decaf has almost all of its caffeine removed. Half caff is a blend of regular and decaf beans, so it retains a meaningful amount of caffeine, just less than a fully caffeinated cup.

Why does decaf sometimes taste worse than regular coffee? This usually comes down to sourcing and roasting, not the decaffeination process itself. Lower-grade decaf beans, often processed with older, harsher chemical methods, can taste flat. Speciality decaf, sourced and roasted with the same care as any other coffee, shouldn't taste noticeably worse.

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